name boards

name boards

Postby Mikethedrummer » Fri Sep 09, 2016 2:05 pm

In the process of buying our 1st GB! Need to change the name and want to "do it right" but have no idea where to look or start?

47 Europa in our future
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Postby Arch » Fri Sep 09, 2016 4:23 pm

Do you want them carved with gold leaf or in gold vinyl not carved?
Where are you located?
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Postby Mikethedrummer » Fri Sep 09, 2016 4:33 pm

Definitely carved and gold. Live in Charleston, the boat is in MI. Hope to take delivery by end of this month.
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Postby Marin Faure » Sat Sep 10, 2016 1:45 am

This topic has come up a number of times over the years. If you do a search of the archives with keywords like "nameboards" "lettering" etc you will probably find a lot of ideas and techniques described and discussed.

I made new teak nameboards for our boat soon after we bought it in 1998 as the originals had been severely cut down. We opted for gold vinyl with a dark gray drop shadow. Should we replace the lettering someday we would go with a brighter gold or possibly silver for better readability/visibility.
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Postby Mikethedrummer » Sat Sep 10, 2016 5:57 am

Good advice on the Silver, we definitely want readability.
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Postby pjwhite » Sat Sep 10, 2016 10:48 am

I carved my own name boards. It took a while, but I think was worth the effort. I found a book on carving "Cape Cod style" signs, which was written, coincidentally, by another Paul White.
The side boards are varnished teak, with painted white lettering with a black outline. I'm currently working on a larger name board for the transom, which will be painted blue, with gold leaf lettering.
Image

To me, it seems that gold on varnished teak would have lower contrast between the lettering and background.
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Postby Arch » Sat Sep 10, 2016 1:09 pm

Finding a really good carver who knows how to carve name boards, select the right wood and grain orientation and do it at an affordable price is not easy. Most of them are in the New England area. I have done my own, but his is not for the faint at heart nor is it inexpensive even if you do you own after you buy all the carving tools, the sharpener and gold leaf. Mahogany is much easier to carve than teak and looks just as good. Paul White's book is a good tutorial, but there are also a lot of you-tube videos now too. Now that 3 axis CNC routers are affordable many sign carvers can do this at a lot less cost and still produce quality work including the correct serif shape and depth not possible with with 2 axis machines. Here are two carvers you might contact for pricing:
Madison Sign Company
1121 Ruskin Street
Madison, WI 53704
608.241.7167

Jim@madisonsign.com
Cape Cod Custom Signs
91 Eldredge Parkway
Orleans, MA 02653
Ph (508) 255-8936

Once the name board is finished, try to design a way to install it without fastening from the front where water will inevitably seep in. You can use a sail track & car arrangement on the back which also keeps it away from the hull so water will not pool. Real gold leaf will not tarnish, but silver does.
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Postby Mikethedrummer » Sat Sep 10, 2016 3:03 pm

Thanks.

I hope to do this project right, which means I won't be the carver or finisher. Thanks for the names.
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Postby GB42-267 » Sat Sep 10, 2016 6:13 pm

One can easily fasten the name board from the front by wrapping some soft cotton yarn right below the screw head and apply a light coat of sealant. Water will not seep past this if done correctly and the name board will look good for many years to come. In the days when wooden boats ruled and before fiber glass was a thing of the future and not even invented yet, they used to wrap okum around the spike heads and smear tar around it to make a waterproof seal. This was a common practice to make the fasteners water proof and it still is today.
If you feel adventurous and possess some basic woodworking skills, you can definitely produce a couple of decent name boards. I'm not trying to oversimplify what it takes to make a good looking name board, but you may be surprised to find out that patience and a steady hand can produce. It will definitely be very intimidating if this is your first go at it, but try it out on a piece of poplar first, a relatively hard and easy to carve wood. Once you get the hang of it, the intimidation factor is gone and you will be ready to hit the expensive wood. As earlier stated, mahogany is a lot easier to carve than teak, but teak will make a nicer cut. The main thing to remember is to keep your carving tools extremely sharp at any time. Once you start seeing a slight fuzz, re-sharpen the tool or you will fight an hopeless battle and lose at the end to splitting wood.
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Postby GB42-267 » Sat Sep 10, 2016 6:18 pm

This is actually done as a first attempt to applying gold leaf. Not too bad for a first time try if I may say so myself :) I wasn't sure of myself and did a small dinghy transom name board in case I screwed up.
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