Logo Progress

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Postby Barry L » Sat Mar 25, 2017 9:18 am

Bronze will tarnish (patina) depending on the chemicals in the air. Ten identical casting poured from the same pot of metal shipped to different places around the world could conceivably, with time, turn ten different colors. I am not sure what alloy GB used on your boat but most likely the logos will gradually tarnish to a matching patina. For the record I use Everdur, a silicon bronze.
Thanks again and enjoy
Barry
Barry and Debbie
1970 Grand Banks 36' Classic #198
"Grand Travail"
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Postby firstbase » Mon Apr 03, 2017 11:18 pm

OK, so I have the logo's in my grubby little paws thank you very much Barry! Now...where to put them on a 42' Classic....hmmm... seems like the only place would be centered on the cabin exterior wall, aft of the salon windows. Not sure they would fit on the "pillar" aft of the cabin doors. Haven't taken them to the boat yet or measured the space. For exterior install those seem to be the only two suspects. Also...how to hang them? Adhesive on the back and then tape them in place (they are H.E.A.V.Y.) until they dry? Four small screws in the corners that go into the fiberglass? Holes ANYWHERE..bad but... Anyone have any ideas?
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Postby Tom H » Tue Apr 04, 2017 5:52 am

Where you describe possible mounting is where my wood plates are mounted. If you click on photo to enlarge it you will note plugged holes below the plate where I think the PO had removed the original plaques. Judging by the hole pattern I believe the originals where similar to your new ones.
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Tom Hansen
1976 42' GBC #482
"Schatzi"
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Postby firstbase » Tue Apr 04, 2017 6:42 am

Thanks Tom. Did you just simply screw into the side with 1" screws or so? Any adhesive/caulk? I believe that area is fairly thick fiberglass backed by interior plywood..?
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Postby Tom H » Tue Apr 04, 2017 1:13 pm

Just 1" screws with a little caulk on them. No adhesive needed , unless of course you plan on doing pull-ups on them. :D :D :D
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Tom Hansen

1976 42' GBC #482

"Schatzi"
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Postby Marin Faure » Thu Apr 06, 2017 2:07 pm

firstbase wrote:OK, so I have the logo's in my grubby little paws thank you very much Barry! Now...where to put them on a 42' Classic....hmmm... seems like the only place would be centered on the cabin exterior wall, aft of the salon windows.


If you like the name plates that American Marine/GB put on some of their production boats and want to duplicate what the manufacturer did then a Google images search will turn up some examples. One of them is below. You can see the nameplate centered on the cabin side aft of the main cabin aft window.

The other identifier American Marine/GB used more commonly which we prefer to the cabin side plate is the bronze caprail step plate they installed at each boarding gate. Unfortunately these have not been available for ages although Bob Lowe did have a foundry cast a bunch of them to order some years ago for forum members. The second photo is of the curved plate we got through Bob for the stern boarding gate on our boat (we managed to get two new straight ones for the side gates from GB in 1998 when we acquired the boat). On later boats the step plates were made of stainless steel (or may be nickel/chrome plated, I don't know).
Marin
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Postby Barry L » Thu Apr 06, 2017 4:12 pm

I have cast a dozen or so step plates for people in the recent past. I can pour them straight or curved. So if any one is interested let me know.
Thanks Barry
Barry and Debbie

1970 Grand Banks 36' Classic #198

"Grand Travail"
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Postby firstbase » Thu Apr 06, 2017 5:48 pm

I got two of Barry's Logo/GB plaques and they are great. Barry, will be getting with you on a curved one for the transom as mentioned above. Just need to remember to get the deflection measurement when I am on the boat this weekend. Do you have a cost on these and did you get my check???

Marin, thanks for the pic. I googled a bunch of times and couldn't find a single one.
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Postby GPBLENKHORN » Thu Apr 06, 2017 8:16 pm

Barry.
The boat is still under shrink wrap up here in Maine and it was only 38 degrees when I did it, but I mounted the logos anyways. (see pics below) They really look great.
As you can see in the pics, I drilled and counter sank holes in the corners, buff the plates further to a mirror finish and then lacquered the finished product. I couldn't be happier with the way they look. You have a great skill.
By the way, I forgot to get the off set for the curved stern step plate. Promise to get it next trip to the boat.
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Postby firstbase » Fri Apr 07, 2017 5:13 am

Barry, how long are the curved step plates?
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Postby Barry L » Fri Apr 07, 2017 7:52 am

The step plate mold I have is 22" long.
Thanks Barry
Barry and Debbie

1970 Grand Banks 36' Classic #198

"Grand Travail"
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Postby firstbase » Fri Apr 07, 2017 1:25 pm

Thanks. So I need deflection from 11" off center.
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Postby Barry L » Sun Apr 09, 2017 9:54 am

Gary
Your polishing work is impressive. Will you share your means and methods?
Thanks Barry
Barry and Debbie

1970 Grand Banks 36' Classic #198

"Grand Travail"
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Postby GPBLENKHORN » Tue Apr 11, 2017 10:18 am

Hi Barry
Sorry it took so long to get back to you but it has finally warmed up a bit here in Maine. I have been at the boat, getting it ready to go back in, almost full time - short season. This is the first time I've seen your post requesting info. I will pull together the process I used to buff the plates and try to get it out to the site by this evening.
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Postby GPBLENKHORN » Wed Apr 12, 2017 11:17 am

HI Barry
Sorry I missed the deadline – but here it is at last.
Following is the process I used to buff your plates. It is loosely based on my experiences in a previous life (before retirement). I was once the research director of an organization that mirror polished very large nickel and chrome plated engraved rolls. Needless to say, that process was expensive, time consuming and proprietary. The process I used to buff the plates utilized inexpensive materials, took less that 1 ½ hrs. to finish both plates and is far from proprietary. Unfortunately, there are no pictures.
It can be broken down into 4 steps.
1. Masking The black recessed areas of the plates needed to be protected during both the sanding and buffing processes. This was the most time-consuming step in the entire process.
a. I covered each plate with 3M blue painters tape. Pressed it into the recessed areas with a wooden stylus (made by sharpening a small dowel in a pencil sharpener and then dulling the point to about a 1/16” flat end).
b. An Exacto knife was used to cut along the edges of the recessed areas. I then removed the tape on all the raised flat areas. The smaller GRAND BANKS name at the bottom of the plate does not need to be masked. The recessed areas are small and difficult to reach with the buffing pad.

2. Sanding The marks left by your “grinding” (?) process need to be removed before any buffing could be done.
a. I sanded the plates using a 5” Dewalt random orbital hand sander. First with a MIRKA Autonet dust free P120 grit and then with a P240 grit. It is easy to visually judge when it is done. There will be a uniform fine texture over the entire plate. One more pass with a finer grit wouldn’t have hurt but I didn’t have it at the time.
b. The particular brand of sanding disk used is probably not that critical.

3. Buffing Here is where the mirror finish is created. All of the materials used are commonly available from buffing suppliers. Mine all came from the VOTAW TOOL CO. in Springfield MO (www.voltawtool.com). Votaw is actually a musical instrument company. Who would know more about polishing brass than an instrument company. There is a lot of brass on a GB.

a. For this job, I used two different buffing wheels and two different rouges. The heavier first buff was done with a Tripoli buffing compound and a 4” muslin wheel.
b. The final, mirror finish buff was done with a Red Rouge buffing compound and an 8” Flannel wheel.

c. Another Buffing/Polishing company I would recommend is Caswell Inc in Lyons NY. I highly recommend reading their “Introduction to Buffing and Polishing”. (www.caswellplating.com/buffs/images/Buffbook.pdf). Pay particular attention to the use of “Cut” and “Color”. These terms refer to the direction you move the part under the buffing wheel. It will make a significant difference in the final mirror finish you achieve.

4. Lacquering Just like brass, bronze will tarnish over time. Some people prefer that “patina” look. Some, like me, prefer the shiny look. A lacquer is necessary to maintain that shine for any period of time. I use a Nikolas 2015 spray lacquer – again from Votaw.
a. Wash the plate to remove any residual abrasive and compound wax. I used warm water and Barmen’s Friend.
b. Wipe dry and clean again with a solvent. I used acetone.
c. Spay plates (both sides) with your lacquer of choice. The Nikolas spray is easy to use, dries very fast, lasts long and looks great. As with all spray applications, several light coats are better than a few heavy coats.
The above process may not be the ideal (there are always better ways to do things) but it’s the one I used and I was very pleased with the final results.
Hope this helps.
Gary
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