How hard will it be to...

For Grand Banks, Alaskans, East Bay & Aleutian Yachts

How hard will it be to...

Postby shanti » Sun Dec 04, 2016 3:36 pm

Remove these hawse papers and cleats to have them refinished? Is it as simple as unscrewing the screws and they come right out or is it opening a major can of worms? 1999 Europa 52'

Thanks![/img]
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
User avatar
shanti
Posts: 122
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 8:57 pm
Supporting Member

Postby Stretch Head » Mon Dec 05, 2016 10:19 am

Mine came off easily by unscrewing the fasteners. I have wood and I don't think the material it's made of matters. Give it a try.
Capt Head
GB42-17 Classic Cockpit Model

My personal Banned List; All Polyester resins, Silicone, Bondo and sea sick crew.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
User avatar
Stretch Head
Posts: 3565
Joined: Tue May 21, 2002 2:00 am
Location: Wilmington, CA. USA
Supporting Member

Postby Arch » Mon Dec 05, 2016 1:51 pm

This reminds me of the guy who said; "All Indians walk in single file, at least the one I saw did". It is important to know that Grand Banks seldom ever had two identical castings so when you take it out be sure to mark not only which is port and starboard, but also which was up and down. If it is "stuck" due to the caulk, a hair dryer can help soften the caulk
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Last edited by Arch on Wed Dec 07, 2016 2:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Arch
Posts: 262
Joined: Thu Dec 07, 2006 3:13 pm

Postby Marin Faure » Mon Dec 05, 2016 9:10 pm

Don't know about the plated or stainless hawses like the one in the photo, but on our old boat with bronze hawses it's a two-piece setup. The outer half has a lip that extends in through the bulwark. The inner "ring" sits around around the end of this lip. Both halves are held on by twelve bronze machine screws threaded into the fiberglass.

However.... over time and pressure from lines it's possible that the fasteners have loosened and chewed up their fiberglass threads. This is what happened with the outer half of our boat's port midship hawse. The outer half takes most of the pressure from the lines running through it. When an insurance survey caught the fact the part was loose I removed it and fixed the fastener holes to a degree. But on the advice of the shipwright who at the time did all the maintenance work on the local GB charter fleet I bedded the piece in 3M 5200 when I re-installed it.

So be aware than if the hawse components don't come off easily when the fasteners are removed they may have been secured with an adhesive as well. If this proves to be the case, 5200 (and I assume other similar adhesives) can be softened with the application of heat. Just be careful of the surrounding fiberglass if you do this. :)
Marin
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
User avatar
Marin Faure
Posts: 5128
Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2004 2:00 am
Location: Sammamish, Washington USA
Supporting Member

Postby the Quietnorth » Wed Dec 07, 2016 2:12 pm

When you remove them, it's a good idea to run a line through and over the hand rail. When you pry them off or what ever method used, you don't want them to go swimming :D
Eric & Melinda
The Quiet North
GB 36CL #735
Birch Bay Village
Washington
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
User avatar
the Quietnorth
Posts: 110
Joined: Fri Jul 14, 2006 7:49 pm
Location: Birch Bay Washington
Supporting Member

Postby Stretch Head » Thu Dec 08, 2016 10:31 am

the Quietnorth wrote:When you remove them, it's a good idea to run a line through and over the hand rail. When you pry them off or what ever method used, you don't want them to go swimming :D


As simple and logical as that seems, I see people not do that. You can't teach common sense.
Capt Head

GB42-17 Classic Cockpit Model



My personal Banned List; All Polyester resins, Silicone, Bondo and sea sick crew.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
User avatar
Stretch Head
Posts: 3565
Joined: Tue May 21, 2002 2:00 am
Location: Wilmington, CA. USA
Supporting Member

Postby denogail » Sat Dec 10, 2016 7:23 am

One of my really miserable Gulf Stream crossings...yes, I know...what was I thinking, when I misjudged the weather forecast...but, I was taking green water over the bow, and it was shooting through the hawser holes, like cannon shot. I soon discovered that I had water getting into the bilge from the bow area. I could see this by the water in the forward bilge by the forward head. How in the world is this water getting into the bilge, I ask myself.

After arriving in Bimini, I started to look around at those hawser holes from the inside and outside. Standing in the dingy, under the bow sprint, I noticed that there was gaps between the pieces of teak trim and the hull and bottom of the bow sprint, underneath. I removed these pieces of teak..port and starboard...to find large holes where the hull comes up to meet the bottom of the bow sprint. Water under pressure was just shooting right in. So, a whole cartrage tube of 5200 later, and teak replaced, that problem was fixed.

Now you are wondering, what this has to do with the hawser holes. When I was hauled out later on for a bottom job, I had rust bleeding down from some SS screws on those forward hawsers. BTW, my hawsers are bronze, with SS screws. I started to remove them, only to find out that the screws would break off, and they were machine screws, that were threaded into a piece of plane old steel. Outside screws were threaded at different intervals to the inside screws. Interesting construction....a steel plate, glassed into the area between the outside hull and the inside deck hull. The plate itself was completely shot. When I did get them off, I also found that there was a great LACK of caulking there to seal them, inside and outside. The hull/deck joint there is hollow...and water can get in there to the bilge also...steel plate, bronze hawsers, and SS screws, a battery in the making...just add salt water.

Moral, if you remove them, make sure you seal the outside flange and the gap between that and the inside flange, and check to see if you have a steel plate imbedded in there.

DenO
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
User avatar
denogail
Posts: 524
Joined: Sun Aug 05, 2007 9:01 am


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 18 guests